VENICE
Yes, there are gondolas and Grand Canal sunsets—but there’s also the hush of hidden gardens, the curve of a handblown glass, the ritual of a mid-morning spritz. We skip the selfie-stick crowds and lean into the textures: quiet sestieri, moody facades, and places that haven’t changed in centuries. This is Venice, edited.
Where We Eat
In Venice, food is about tradition. Expect lagoon seafood, cicchetti bars, and rich dishes like cuttlefish ink risotto and fegato alla veneziana, all served with a side of centuries-old ritual and just the right amount of swagger.
Our Dinner Go-Tos
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A tiny, cult-loved seafood osteria near Santa Maria Formosa with just a handful of tables and an always-fresh, always-changing chalkboard menu. Expect clams, cuttlefish, razor-thin carpaccios, and local white wines—no frills, no slack.
Best to book in advance—locals and in-the-know travelers compete for spots.
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In San Giovanni, this is Roman food wHidden down a crooked alley near the Rialto, this unfussy trattoria does impeccable classics: pasta with spider crab, grilled baby squid, and the city’s crispiest fritto misto. It’s rowdy, Venetian, and completely unpretentious.
No pizza, no tourists, no problem.
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A longtime favorite with a huge grappa selection, lively energy, and rustic tables spilling onto the street. The vibe is local—think Venetian classics with generous portions and waiters who tell you what to order before you’ve asked. Don’t skip the baccalà mantecato or the daily pasta.
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A wine-forward modern bistro tucked away from the crowds. The food is light, seasonal, and slightly experimental—think ricotta with zucchini flowers or squid ink gnocchi. A favorite among young Venetians who know where to go. The natural wine list is one of the best in the city.
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Low-key, family-run, and utterly charming—this one is more under-the-radar than the big names but beloved for its homestyle pasta, grilled fish, and warm service. The garden tables feel like a secret.
Street Food
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A hole-in-the-wall kiosk serving deep-fried Venetian classics like polenta with cuttlefish ink, fried calamari cones, and baccalà mantecato on crostini. Best enjoyed standing in the street with a paper cone and a cold drink.
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Don’t be fooled by the no-frills look—this is where you’ll find some of Venice’s best mozzarella in carrozza (deep-fried mozzarella sandwiches with anchovy or ham). Also offers lasagna, risotto, and meatballs at shockingly fair prices.
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A modern bacaro with a strong cicchetti game—think mini panini, seafood skewers, and fried zucchini flowers. Grab a spritz, snack standing up, or find a spot at the casual upstairs bar.
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Bourdain came here for one thing: the polpette. These house-made meatballs are fried golden and served simply—with a glass of red wine and no fanfare. Locals crowd the tiny bar for cicchetti and spritzes before dinner, but the polpette are the main event.
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Tucked behind the Rialto Market, this tiny standing-only bar serves prosecco by the glass and freshly made mini panini filled with speck, burrata, or truffle salami. Fast, excellent, and surprisingly affordable.
Go All Out
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Michelin-starred but still intimate, this is Enrico Bartolini’s outpost inside the sumptuous Palazzo Venart. Think fine dining without the flash—elegant plates, quiet canal views, and a serious wine list. Order the tasting menu for a modern take on Venetian ingredients.
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Upstairs from the tourist crush in Piazza San Marco is one of Venice’s most iconic dining rooms. Run by the Alajmo brothers, the menu is imaginative and deeply rooted in Venetian flavors. Expect velvet banquettes, Murano chandeliers, and dishes that feel like art.
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Contemporary, ingredient-forward, and helmed by a young local team—this is where Venetians in the know go for something fresh. Minimalist interiors, hyper-seasonal menus, and impeccable technique.
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Tucked behind a leafy courtyard, Wistèria serves innovative Venetian cuisine in a peaceful, design-forward space. The service is gracious, and the multicourse tasting menu is thoughtful without being fussy.
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Arrive by private boat to the legendary Cipriani and settle in for a golden-hour dinner that feels like a Fellini film. The one-Michelin-starred Oro is a splurge, but the setting—gilded ceilings, candlelight, and manicured gardens—is pure Venetian fantasy.
Best Desserts
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Beloved by Venetians and university students alike, Tonolo is the city’s go-to for perfect pastries and traditional seasonal sweets. The cream-filled krapfen and flaky millefoglie are musts. Closed in August—worth timing your trip around.
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An elevated gelato experience tucked just off the tourist path. Flavors rotate daily, but the “Manet”—a mix of pistachio, chocolate, and salted caramel—is their cult favorite. Silky texture, deep flavor, and not too sweet.
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A historic pastry shop dating back to the 19th century. Known for airy tiramisù, almond cakes, and buttery pastries. Best enjoyed in the early morning or late afternoon with a macchiato.
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Steps from the train station, this isn’t just a pitstop—it’s a destination. Try the pistachio cannoli or anything with ricotta. A smart choice before boarding or right after arriving.
Where We Wake Up
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Yes, it’s touristy. But there’s no replacing it. Dating back to 1720, this historic café is all carved wood, marble tables, and live classical music. Come early, sit outside, and order the thick hot chocolate or a cornetto with marmellata.
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Venice’s top artisanal coffee roaster, set along a quiet canal. Beans are roasted on-site, and the staff actually knows what they’re doing with an espresso machine. Great for a quick but elevated morning stop.
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Tucked near the Rialto but never chaotic, this café offers expertly made cappuccinos and a pastry selection that rotates with the seasons. Try the pistachio-filled croissants if they’re available.
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A cult favorite with locals and university students alike. Best known for its seasonal treats like fritelle during Carnevale and delicate, cream-filled pastries the rest of the year. Don’t expect to sit—this is an in-and-out operation.
The Night Starts Here
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A San Polo staple for the well-informed cocktail crowd. Tucked beside a canal, the menu tells stories through drinks—each one inspired by a voyage. Come for the vibe, stay for the “Smoking Gun” with mezcal.
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Not exactly “clubby” but it’s the kind of long, wine-drenched dinner that ends in someone suggesting a nightcap. The garden courtyard is ideal for summer nights. Order seafood pastas, grilled shellfish, and more white wine than you need.
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A 16-seat wine bar tucked away in Castello, where the tasting menu changes weekly and the energy is always on point. You’ll overhear Italians gossiping about work, couples on anniversaries, and solo diners with notebooks. Small, precise, memorable.
Where We Sleep
Il Palazzo
Experimental
A retro-chic bolthole from the Experimental Group, right on the Zattere.
Set in a former palace with a sleek mid-century update, Il Palazzo Experimental feels like the cool friend's apartment you wish you had. The garden terrace is perfect for aperitivo, and the Experimental cocktail bar brings in a local crowd.
Image courtesy of Palazzo Experimental
From ~€240/night
Location: Dorsoduro, on the Canale della Giudecca
32 rooms and suites with velvet, marble, and playful vintage details
On-site Experimental Cocktail Club and Italian bistro
Chic, color-forward interiors
Communal garden terrace
No spa but treatments available on request
The canal-facing rooms are worth the extra spend — particularly those on upper floors.
Sina Centurion
Palace
A Gothic-meets-modern landmark on the Grand Canal
Why We Like It
The location alone — next to the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute — is reason enough, but the playful, contemporary design and canal views seal the deal.
Image courtesy of Sina Centurion Palace
Details To Know
From ~€320/night
Grand Canal location at the Punta della Dogana with views toward San Marco
Bold, eclectic interiors: black chandeliers, lipstick-red walls, gilded accents
Rooms range from compact to sprawling — some with balconies over the water
Terrace aperitivo is a hidden highlight with museum-like surroundings
Amazing lounge with exceptional cocktails
The Grand Canal rooms with balconies offer unforgettable sunset views.
Ca’ di Dio
An unexpected newcomer to the lagoon — elegant, design-led, and rooted in sustainability.
Why We Like It
Patricia Urquiola’s interiors reflect a quiet, luxurious minimalism rare for Venice. Add in a serene courtyard and views of the lagoon, and it feels like a hidden sanctuary.
Image courtesy of Ca’ di Dio
From ~€390/night
Historic convent turned serene 5-star by Patricia Urquiola
66 rooms and suites
Interiors mix Venetian craftsmanship with minimalist calm
Excellent seasonal restaurant and a relaxed, design-led courtyard
Full LEED-certified sustainability built into its bones
Staff are gracious and discreet, with an eye for detail
Come during Biennale years — the location puts you just steps from major pavilions.
Details To Know
Why We Like It
Details To Know
Why We Like It
Details To Know
Details To Know
The Gritti
Palace
Old-world glamour at its peak — an iconic stay on the Grand Canal that’s every bit as opulent as you imagine.
Why We Like It
Dripping in chandeliers, antiques, and heritage fabrics, The Gritti is a masterclass in Venetian excess — but with impeccable service and unbeatable views.
Image courtesy of The Gritti Palace
From ~€760/night
Iconic and unapologetically opulent, facing the Salute and Grand Canal
Each room is different: Rubelli fabrics, antiques, Murano chandeliers
Club del Doge terrace is a destination in itself — reserve at golden hour
In-room details: Acqua di Parma, Frette linens, silk wallpaper
Concierge can arrange everything from opera boxes to private boats
Luxury here is theatrical, precise, and deeply Venetian
Book a cooking class through the Gritti Epicurean School — it’s surprisingly hands-on and genuinely worth it.
Aman Venice
A 16th-century palazzo turned ultra-luxury hideaway.
Simply put, it’s the most exclusive stay in the city. With just 24 suites and views of the Grand Canal, it feels like having your own palazzo. Where frescoes, gilded ceilings, and a rare garden meet signature Aman tranquility.
Image courtesy of Aman Venice
From ~€1,300/night
A 16th-century palazzo with original frescoes and soaring ceilings
Suites are vast, with river views, ornate details, and contemporary understatement
Secluded private garden — rare and meditative in Venice
Two fine dining spaces, one facing the canal, one in the ballroom
Personal butler on request, plus private dock and custom experiences
Two fine dining spaces, one facing the canal, one in the ballroom
Reserved for those seeking true quiet and serious beauty.
What We Do
From secret ateliers and private palazzos to curated boat rides through lesser-known canals, Venice rewards the curious. You’ll skip the clichés and uncover the soul of the city through design, history, art, and a bit of mystery. This is where slow travel meets spectacle.
Culture & Shopping
Culture & Shopping
Giuliana Longo
A hat shop that’s been around since 1904, still family-run. Come for the gondolier caps, stay for the handwoven Panamas and feather-trimmed drama pieces.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Calle del Lovo, San Marco
Price: €–€€€
Vibe: Timeless, theatrical, old-world elegance
Need to Know: The shop is tiny — expect to browse shoulder-to-shoulder with true connoisseurs.
Palazzo Fortuny
Less a museum, more a moody, velvety fever dream inside a Gothic palazzo. This was Mariano Fortuny’s home and atelier — it still feels like he just stepped out. Often closed for long stretches, so check ahead.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: San Beneto, San Marco
Price: €€
Vibe: Haunting, intellectual, deeply romantic
Need to Know: The lighting is intentionally dim — bring a good camera for soft, painterly shots.
Drogheria Mascari
A true Venetian institution for spices, candied fruits, and rare liqueurs. The scent alone is worth the visit. Ideal for edible souvenirs that don’t feel like souvenirs.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Ruga degli Spezieri, near Rialto
Price: €–€€
Vibe: Aromatic, old-school, wildly authentic
Need to Know: Try the house-made limoncello — locals swear by it.
Adventure & Nature
Adventure & Nature
Brenta Riviera by Boat
Glide down the 18th-century canal that links Venice to Padua, flanked by Palladian villas and weeping willows. It’s a slower, more romantic side of the lagoon — less about the destination, more about the drift.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Departs from Fusina or Stra, 30–45 min from Venice
Price: €99+ for a full-day guided boat tour
Vibe: Bucolic, historic, quietly grand
Need to Know: Some tours include villa access and lunch stops — double check the itinerary.
Sant’Erasmo by Bike
Known as the “vegetable garden of Venice,” Sant’Erasmo is where locals grow wine grapes, artichokes, and herbs. Rent a bike and loop around the island past orchards, sandy beaches, and abandoned watchtowers.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Vaporetto Line 13 from Fondamente Nove
Price: €15–€25 for bike rental
Vibe: Rustic, local, quietly wild
Need to Know: Pack water and snacks — there are few services on the island, but lots of space to picnic.
Venetian Lagoon Kayaking
Escape the crowds and paddle through the hidden canals, salt marshes, and tiny island clusters that most tourists never see. Early morning or golden hour tours are particularly serene.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Launches from Certosa Island or Sant’Erasmo
Price: ~€50–€90 depending on tour length
Vibe: Peaceful, low-impact adventure, cinematic
Need to Know: Tours are tide-dependent — timing matters more than you think.
Nightlife
Nightlife
The Experimental Cocktail Club
Tucked behind an unmarked door in Dorsoduro, this sultry speakeasy by the Experimental Group is where the in-the-know crowd sips negronis beneath velvet lampshades. It’s low-lit, design-forward, and buzzes with quiet cool.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Fondamenta Zattere al Ponte Lungo, Dorsoduro
Price: €€–€€€
Vibe: Understated glamour, Euro-sleek, speakeasy energy
Need to Know: Book ahead — it’s tiny, and they will turn you away.
Il Mercante
This San Polo cocktail bar is hidden behind a nondescript door, but the drinks are anything but. Themed menus change with the seasons, and each drink is practically a story.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Campo dei Frari, San Polo
Price: €€–€€€
Vibe: Alchemical, mixology nerd heaven, lush interiors
Need to Know: Downstairs is cozy, upstairs is moodier — request based on your vibe.
Chet Bar
A warm, lived-in little jazz bar tucked near Santa Croce. Dimly lit, intimate, and full of locals who come for live sets and strong pours.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Calle Tron, Santa Croce
Price: €–€€
Vibe: Bohemian, low-key, soul-stirring
Need to Know: No reservations — come early if you want a seat near the stage.
ITINERARY
If You Have 48 Hours
PART ONE: Arrival & First Impressions
Arrive, check in, and let yourself acclimate to the rhythm of the lagoon. Drop your bags somewhere grounded and elegant — Ca’ di Dio for its serene minimalism, or Il Palazzo Experimental if you want bold interiors and canal-facing charm. Skip the heavy sightseeing and ease in slowly: a table at Caffè Florian.
For lunch, head to Osteria al Mascaron for a plate of spaghetti with clams and zero performance, or cross into Dorsoduro for Trattoria Anzolo Raffaele, a locals’ favorite with a leafy courtyard. Then wander with no agenda — maybe into Palazzo Fortuny, or maybe just into the quiet backstreets that make Venice feel like a dream you accidentally walked into.
By late afternoon, the sun dips low and the water begins to shimmer pink and gold — this is when Venice exhales. Head to Al Timon in Cannaregio or the bar at Estro in Dorsoduro for a perfectly bitter spritz and some people-watching. Then take your time getting to dinner. The in-between moments matter here.
Dinner depends on your mood: Antiche Carampane is timeless and seafood-forward, while Local feels more modern, with clever takes on lagoon ingredients. End the night with a drink at Experimental Cocktail Club — velvet booths, candlelight, and not a gimmick in sight. This is the kind of evening that reminds you why Venice is still magic.
PART TWO: Late Light, Local Color
PART THREE: Early Hours, Hidden Streets
Set an early alarm and see the city before it wakes. Walk the Zattere promenade or ferry over to Giudecca and watch the water taxis buzz past. Espresso at Caffè Rosso, then a pastry (or two) at Tonolo — the crema-filled fritelle are barely legal. These are the softest hours of the city, and you’ll want to stretch them.
Spend the rest of the morning weaving through real-life errands — a spice stop at Drogheria Mascari, or even a gondola ride (if done right — no selfies, no costumes). For lunch, repeat Estro if you didn’t make it the night before, or go simpler: cicchetti with a cold glass of Soave from a counter with no name.
PART FOUR: Slow Goodbyes
The last hours in Venice aren’t for rushing. Skip the museums and choose something tactile — a hat from Giuliana Longo, or a final slow walk through Campo Santa Margherita with a pistachio gelato in hand. You’re not checking off boxes. You’re imprinting mood.
For your final meal, go out well: Wistèria offers a refined but relaxed setting in a hidden garden, while Quadri leans full fantasy, especially if you’ve booked a Grand Canal table. A nightcap at Skyline Rooftop Bar gives you one last view — and a quiet place to savor it all. Venice doesn’t ask you to understand it. It just asks you to look.
