PUGLIA
Olive groves and masserie. Whitewashed villages. Raw coastlines and quiet luxury. Puglia is sun-faded, wind-swept, and wildly beautiful — a region where life moves slowly and meals stretch on for hours. From the polished trulli of the Itria Valley to the fishing boats of Gallipoli, this is Italy at its most elemental. Think endless seafood, thick dialects, and unpretentious magic — the kind that settles into your bones.
Where We Eat
Puglia’s cuisine is simple and soulful — a celebration of the land and sea. Expect handmade orecchiette, charred octopus, olive oil poured like wine, and sun-dried everything.
Our Dinner Go-Tos
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This no-frills local institution in Lecce serves the kind of home cooking that generations have preserved — and perfected. Expect slow-cooked meats, silky orecchiette, and tender chicory. Order whatever the nonna tells you to — she’s usually right.
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A breezy, understated spot perched right over the sea. It’s seafood-focused and unfussy — just-caught crudo, grilled scampi, and housemade pasta with sea urchin. The view at sunset feels like a secret.
No pizza, no tourists, no problem. Click here.
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Set in a tiny village outside Andria, this beloved spot helped put Puglian cucina povera on the global map. Ingredients are mostly grown in the backyard, and the daily menu is scribbled out by hand. Chef Peppino’s fennel sausage and wild chicory is cult status.
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Equal parts trattoria and wine sanctuary, Cibus is carved into a former convent in one of Puglia’s oldest towns. Expect braised meats, aged cheeses, and a serious cellar. If you like slow, rich, rural food — this is a pilgrimage.
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Set inside a limestone grotto in the White City, this is the place for candlelit atmosphere and polished local fare. The house-made orecchiette with tomato and cacioricotta is a must.
Street Food
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A beloved neighborhood institution for locals craving a panzerotto fix. Fried until blistered and bubbling, these are the ones you dream about after leaving. The classic tomato and mozzarella is perfect, but try the mortadella version if you’re feeling bold.
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Steps from the Basilica, this tiny bakery serves some of the best focaccia barese in the city — salty, olive-oil soaked, and topped with bursts of cherry tomatoes. Usually still warm from the oven.
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This stylish butcher-turned-street-food-counter rethinks Apulian classics. Think bombette (cheese-stuffed pork rolls), grilled meat skewers, and housemade sausages served in paper boats with local wine. It’s rustic, but in the coolest way.
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For decades, Maria has fried perfect golden triangles of scagliozze (crispy polenta) from a tiny stand near the old city walls. It’s street food in its purest form — no menu, no frills, just paper cones and salt.
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Tucked behind the Rialto Market, this tiny standing-only bar serves prosecco by the glass and freshly made mini panini filled with speck, burrata, or truffle salami. Fast, excellent, and surprisingly affordable. Click here.
Go All Out
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A Michelin-starred standout tucked inside a former convent, Pasha fuses Puglian tradition with fine-dining finesse. Tasting menus center around seasonal ingredients and reinterpret local staples — think raw red prawns with almond cream or lamb with fermented turnip greens. Elegant without being cold, it’s a must for special occasions.
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Located inside the stylish Vinilia Wine Resort, Casamatta delivers elevated, ingredient-forward plates with serious Apulian roots. The design is polished, the wine list is outstanding, and the tasting menus shift constantly. Book the table by the stone arch for the full effect.
Best Desserts
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A southern Italian institution, Martinucci has been perfecting pasticciotti, gelato, and semifreddo since 1950. The Lecce outpost is particularly popular for its modern café vibe and classic sweets done right. Order a still-warm pasticciotto with espresso for the most Pugliese breakfast imaginable.
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Just off Piazza Sant’Oronzo, this old-school pastry shop is famous for its pasticciotti, marzipan, and house-made spumone. It’s standing-room only during holidays—and for good reason. Ask for their seasonal variations: fig in the fall, lemon in spring, always unforgettable.
Where We Wake Up
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A Lecce institution since the 1950s, Caffe Alvino is the place to start your morning in the baroque city center. Locals come for rustici and pasticciotti, eaten standing at the marble counter with a quick espresso. Their pasticciotto crema is iconic — flaky, warm, and worth the hype.
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Right on Piazza Sant’Oronzo, Caffè Orlando is a Lecce mainstay — sleek but not pretentious. You’ll find classic pasticciotti, flakey rustici, and some of the best almond milk cappuccinos in town. Go early and sit outside for people-watching with a side of crema.
The Night Starts Here
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Carved into the limestone rock of Ostuni’s old town, this dramatic, cave-like spot is more of a scene than you’d expect from the outside. Expect candlelight, locals in linen, and a night that stretches longer than planned.
Where We Sleep
Sextantio
A cinematic cave‑hotel carved into the Sassi, candlelit and atmospheric.
Why We Like It
The mix of Moorish arches, whitewashed simplicity, and relaxed countryside elegance feels timeless and deeply Pugliese. The owners still live on site, and the vibe is soulful, unpretentious, and peaceful.
Image courtesy of Tablet
Details To Know
From ~€250/night
In Sassi di Matera — historic but quiet off-season
18 cave rooms with antique furnishings and stone walls
Breakfast in a former chapel with candles & classical music
No TVs or minibars — unplugged luxury
Stone bathrooms with tubs and premium toiletries
In-room massages and guided history walks available
Ideal for culture lovers and those seeking atmosphere. Some suites open directly onto the cave terraces with dramatic views.
Masseria
Dagilupi
An intimate olive‑mill turned minimalist adults‑only retreat.
Why We Like It
Quiet, pared-back luxury done right. Just three suites, all with vaulted ceilings and soft neutral tones, set among ancient olive trees. There’s no restaurant or poolside buzz, just thoughtful design and a sense of calm. It’s a refined base for couples looking to slow down and disconnect.
Image courtesy of Masseria Dagilupi
Details To Know
From ~€280/night
10 min from Ostuni old town
Stunning pool and private beach access provided
Vaulted stone interiors with soft neutral tones
Organic cold breakfasts in the garden
Massage and yoga on request
No restaurant onsite — local dining close by
The three rooms are named for local winds — Scirocco, Maestrale, and Grecale.
Borgo San Marco
A relaxed masseria blending Moorish arches with olive groves.
Why We Like It
More soulful than scene-y, this restored estate feels rooted in place. Interiors mix rustic tradition and artistic flair, with ancient stone, arched corridors, and open courtyards. You’ll likely be welcomed by the owners themselves. It’s understated, warm, and quietly stylish.
Image courtesy of Borgo San Marco
Details To Know
From ~€300/night
Between Fasano and the sea (<10 min drive)
On‑site seasonal restaurant and fresh seafood
Large pool nestled among ancient trees
Mix of rustic and modern room styles
Yoga classes, bikes, and olive‑oil tastings available
Friendly hosts who still live onsite
The chapel on-site is occasionally used for intimate concerts and ceremonies.
Masseria
Moroseta
A minimal, stylish sanctuary beloved by creatives and foodies alike.
Why We Like It
Quietly influential and often imitated, Moroseta has become a benchmark for contemporary Puglian hospitality. The design is clean and modern, with views over olive groves and the sea. Meals are communal and seasonal, often drawing on ingredients grown onsite. It’s a destination in itself—for those who value simplicity done with precision.
Image courtesy of Masseria Moroseta
Details To Know
From ~€300/night
3 km from Ostuni, set among organic olive groves
Six rooms and two suites with private terraces
Saltwater pool, spa, sauna, and yoga pavilion
Vegetarian communal dinners weekly
Herbs, vegetables, and olive oil grown onsite
Minimalist interiors, no kids
Bicycles included for local exploring
Founder Carlo Lanzini is often on-site, personally curating the guest experience.
Critabianca
Why We Like It
A romantic retreat in the Salento countryside surrounded by vineyards.
A quiet, rural escape where the details are done right. Elegant, individually styled rooms open onto citrus groves and stone terraces. Dinners are slow, local, and candlelit. There’s a personal warmth here that makes it feel more like a private estate than a hotel.
Image courtesy of Critabianca
Details To Know
From ~€300/night
5 km from Galatina in the Cutrofiano countryside
Six rooms, each with a distinct color palette
Six rooms, each with a distinct color palette
Restaurant offering local Salentino specialties
Wine tastings and cooking classes available
Family-owned and personally run
The house wine comes from vines just meters from your room.
Tenuta
Negroamaro
A working wine estate with modern suites in the heart of Negroamaro country.
Why We Like It
Set on a functioning vineyard, this tenuta offers wine immersion without the fuss. Interiors are sharp and modern, but the land is old—producing some of Puglia’s best-known reds. Tastings and cellar tours are casual and intimate. A crisp, grown-up choice for those who care more about terroir than trendy labels.
Image courtesy of Tenuta Negroamaro
Details To Know
From ~€310/night
Located near Guagnano in the Salento wine zone
Nine contemporary suites with vineyard views
In-house tastings and cellar tours
On-site bistro with seasonal produce
Bikes available for exploring nearby villages
Winery open to the public during harvest
Adults-only for a quieter ambiance
Sunset aperitivo is served directly in the vines.
Palazzo Zimara
A reimagined aristocratic home in the historic heart of Mesagne.
Why We Like It
A contemporary take on the traditional palazzo, this five-room hideaway blends 18th-century elegance with thoughtful restraint. You’ll find handmade tiles, original frescoes, and local craftsmanship throughout. The rooftop offers lovely town views, and there’s an intimacy that comes with being one of just a few guests. Ideal as a base for cultural travelers.
Image courtesy of Palazzo Zimara
Details To Know
From ~€320/night
Steps from Mesagne’s baroque town center
Five bespoke rooms with custom furniture and art
Rooftop lounge with sunset views
Breakfasts sourced from nearby farms
Historic frescoes and vaulted ceilings
Concierge can arrange walking tours and excursions
Free parking available onsite
There’s no pool, but day passes to nearby beach clubs can be arranged.
Masseria
Borgo Ritella
A whitewashed hillside masseria near Fasano, modernized for lazy long weekends.
Why We Like It
A relaxed, approachable choice with all the essentials: sea views, spa, and a strong breakfast game. Rooms are crisp and unfussy, and the pool terrace is well-placed for golden hour. It’s neither flashy nor rustic—just the right in-between. Best for families or couples who want easy access to the coast without sacrificing comfort.
Image courtesy of Masseria Borgo Ritella
Details To Know
From ~€350/night
3 km from Fasano, elevated position with panoramas
Daily breakfast with local produce
11 rooms and 2 apartments
Hammam and spa treatments available
Small gym and yoga terrace
Restaurant offers seasonal Apulian cuisine
Excellent spot for day trips into Alberobello, Locorotondo, and Cisternino.
Masseria
Torre Maizza
A Rocco Forte property set in a 16th-century masseria with golf and glamour.
Why We Like It
Polished and cosmopolitan, Torre Maizza strikes a balance between international standard and local character. Expect signature Rocco Forte service, a standout spa, and a private beach club that’s hard to beat. Interiors are sleek but grounded, with vaulted ceilings and neutral tones.
Image courtesy of Tattler
Details To Know
From ~€650/night
Between Savelletri and the Adriatic coast
40 rooms and suites with private gardens
Michelin-starred dining onsite
Spa, hammam, and full gym
Private beach club with shuttle service
9-hole executive golf course, water sports, and horseback riding available
Bicycles and yoga classes offered
Chic but warm hospitality
Best enjoyed if you plan to spend time onsite — there’s plenty to do.
La Fiermontina
An elegant art-filled stay in Lecce’s historic center.
Why We Like It
This restored palazzo combines classic architecture with refined creative touches. Suites feel personal, with curated art from the owner’s private collection and local stone underfoot. The garden pool and rooftop are a rare find for a city hotel. It’s romantic, cultured, and discreetly luxurious.
Image courtesy of La Fiermontina
Details To Know
From ~€690/night
In Lecce’s baroque core, walking distance to landmarks
16 rooms and suites with original stonework
Private garden and pool
Contemporary restaurant and rooftop terrace
Personal concierge team for curated excursions
Airport transfers can be arranged
The same owners run a sister property in Morocco — ask for a combined itinerary.
Palazzo Daniele
A moody, minimalist design hotel in a 19th-century aristocratic home.
Why We Like It
Artistic, pared-back, and quietly bold, Palazzo Daniele offers a different kind of luxury. Rooms are gallery-like, with original frescoes, bold furniture, and soaring ceilings. Meals are shared, art is integral, and the experience is intentionally un-hotel-like. It’s elegant but not predictable—ideal for those with a strong sense of taste.
Image courtesy of Tattler Palazzo Daniele
Details To Know
From ~€950/night
Located in Gagliano del Capo, southern Salento
Nine suites with soaring ceilings and curated art
Black-bottom pool in the citrus courtyard
Shared kitchen and communal long table dining
Open studio and artist-in-residence programming
Strong Wi-Fi but no TVs
Guided experiences and coastline day trips arranged
The open-door kitchen invites guests to watch the chef at work or even help prep.
What We Do
Puglia is all about soulful simplicity. Beyond its olive groves and Adriatic beaches, the region delivers slow-lane culture: baroque cities carved from honeyed stone, age-old crafts passed down through generations, and a proud food and wine culture rooted in the land. Expect antique markets in sleepy piazzas, independent ateliers with a modern edge, and layered history woven into daily life.
Culture & Shopping
Culture & Shopping
Museo Faggiano
A home turned archaeological trove, this privately owned museum uncovers 2,000 years of local history—Roman cisterns, medieval frescoes, even a Knights Templar passageway—discovered during plumbing repairs.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Lecce
Price: €5
Vibe: Intimate, unexpected, and deeply local
Need to Know: Visits are self-guided but the owners are often around to add personal context—ask questions.
Bottega d’Arte Cartapesta Claudio Riso
One of Lecce’s most respected papier-mâché artisans, Claudio Riso’s studio showcases intricate, hand-molded figures made with traditional methods. A cultural staple of Salento craftsmanship.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Lecce
Price: Free entry, €€€ for finished pieces
Vibe: Old-world workshop meets folk art
Need to Know: Watch the artist at work and ask about smaller, more affordable pieces to take home—some are signed and dated like fine art.
Museo della Civiltà del Vino Primitivo
This small but carefully curated museum traces the story of Primitivo wine from ancient times to today, housed in a historic cellar complex owned by a working cooperative.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Manduria
Price: €5 for museum entry, tastings extra
Vibe: Earthy, educational, and wine-soaked
Need to Know: Combine your visit with a guided tasting—reservations recommended for English tours.
Adventure & Nature
Adventure & Nature
Kayak & Cave Tour
Glide through crystalline Adriatic waters, pop into hidden sea caves like Palazzese and Ardito, then pause for a cool dip and aperitif on deck.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Polignano a Mare
Price: Around €50 per person for a guided 2.5-hour tour
Vibe: Pure Mediterranean serenity with a touch of adventure
Need to Know: Guided by certified instructors; best at first light to avoid crowds and capture golden-hour lighting
Horseback Riding
Explore pineta forests, sea views, and coastal trails just north of Puglia’s southern tip in Gargano National Park.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Gargano National Park
Price: From €54 per person for a guided 1-hour ride
Vibe: Lush coastal woodlands meets relaxed countryside breeze
Need to Know: Suited to all levels, led by certified local guides; ideal as a dawn or dusk escape
Gravine di Laterza
For something rugged and off the usual coastal path, hike a dramatic limestone canyon often called “Italy’s Grand Canyon.” The protected reserve is home to rare birds of prey, wild orchids, and a network of scenic trails that wind through gorges and oak forests.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Laterza, about 45 minutes from Matera or Taranto
Price: Free for self-guided hikes; ~€20–€40 per person for guided experiences through associations like Cooperativa Serapia or Vivarch
Vibe: Untouched nature, dramatic scenery, little foot traffic
Need to Know: Wear proper footwear—some trails are narrow or steep. Spring and autumn are ideal for birdwatching and mild temperatures.
Tratturo Magno
Follow in the footsteps of shepherds on the Tratturo Magno, one of Italy’s oldest transhumance routes. Stretching from L’Aquila to Foggia, this ancient path crosses the Daunian Mountains in northern Puglia, offering sweeping views over wheat fields, hilltop villages, and wildflower-strewn meadows.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Northern Puglia, best accessed from Bovino or Lucera
Price: Free to access; some guided multi-day options from €50–€150/day
Vibe: Pastoral and historic, with an almost meditative pace
Need to Know: The full route is long, but you can hike shorter segments. Best in spring or fall for weather and scenery. Guided options available via Appennino Slow or Tratturo Trekking.
Alta Murgia National Park
This karst plateau offers lunar landscapes, ancient farmsteads, and wild orchids in spring. The lesser-known park is raw and cinematic, great for walkers who want a bit of solitude.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Near Gravina in Puglia
Price: Free entry, € for guided experiences
Vibe: Rugged and windswept
Need to Know: Go with a guide if you want to explore cave churches and hidden rock dwellings—there’s no signage.
Private Gozzo Charter
Set off from the iconic Polignano harbor aboard a classic wooden gozzo for a bespoke coastal cruise—explore sea caves, hidden grottos, and coves at your own pace. Typically, your guide is a born-and-bred Apulian, and your crew lays out Prosecco, local olives, and taralli on board.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Polignano a Mare
Price: From €350+ for a half-day private charter
Vibe: Discreet luxury meets laid-back sea life
Need to Know: Best at midday for perfect light; bring swimwear and a cover-up—you’ll anchor mid-coastline for a dip and aperitivo.
Classes & Workshops
Classes & Workshops
Olive Oil Tasting at Masseria Brancati
A centuries-old masseria outside Ostuni where ancient trees, some over 3,000 years old, still produce oil. The tour includes a walk through the UNESCO-recognized olive groves, a visit to the underground Roman mill, and a guided tasting of their estate oils.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Ostuni
Price: €15–€30 per person depending on group size
Vibe: Rustic and historic, not flashy—deeply authentic
Need to Know: Tours must be booked in advance, especially during harvest season.
Wine Tasting at Cantele Winery
At the acclaimed iSensi lab near Guagnano, you’ll explore estate-grown Negroamaro, Primitivo, and Fiano in a sensory-led tasting that includes cellar and vineyard insights.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Guagnano, Salento
Price: €15–€45 per person, tasting only; tastings with lunch €50–€60
Vibe: Polished, educational, rooted in family heritage
Need to Know: Available in English; combine with lunch in the vineyard or wine cellar tour
Traditional Pugliese Cooking Class
This class takes place inside a restored countryside villa and is led by a local nonna. You’ll learn to make orecchiette from scratch, bake rustic focaccia, and use seasonal Apulian produce from the property’s garden. Wine is poured generously.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Near Lecce
Price: €95–€120 per person
Vibe: Intimate, warm, and family-style
Need to Know: Vegetarian and gluten-free options available upon request.
Sample Itinerary
If You Have 72 Hours
PART ONE: White Stone & Stillness
Begin in Ostuni, the white city perched over olive groves and sea. Drop your bags at the dreamy Masseria Dagilupi, a reimagined olive mill where everything is hushed and pared back. Have a slow breakfast at Caffè Orlando, then meander the town’s winding alleys until lunch at countryside favorite Il Cortiletto, where the pastas are always seasonal and the wines always regional.
Spend your afternoon horizontal—poolside at Dagilupi or on a guided olive oil tasting at Masseria Moroseta. For dinner, book a garden table at Paragon 700—a restored palazzo with candlelight, citrus trees, and a low-key crowd that knows where to go.
PART TWO: Coastal Colors & Contemporary Luxury
Head south along the coast, stopping in Lecce for a quick architectural fix and coffee in the sculpture-strewn courtyard of La Fiermontina. By midday, make your way to Porto Selvaggio for a private charter through the marine reserve—swim in limestone grottos, snorkel through crystalline coves, and sip prosecco onboard.
Return to land just in time for sunset drinks at Enoteca Mamma Elvira in Lecce before grabbing dinner at Palazzo Daniele. More like a live-in gallery than a hotel, this moody aristocratic home turns dinner into a ritual—shared plates, long tables, and the quiet hum of cultivated taste.
PART THREE: Vines, Valleys & Something Still
Start inland at Critabianca with a house-made breakfast and a guided wine tasting overlooking citrus trees. From there, drive up through the Valle d’Itria, stopping for a long, light lunch under the vines at Tenuta Negroamaro—there’s no menu, only what’s best that day.
The afternoon is yours: detour into Locorotondo or Cisternino for a hilltop wander, or book a one-on-one olive oil tasting at Giuliano Ricchiuto’s lab in Tricase. Dinner is on the terrace at La Peschiera, waves just beneath you, and dessert is a pistachio gelato from Martinucci Laboratory a few steps down the beach.
