UMBRIA & LE MARCHE
Florence & Tuscany
Umbria & Le Marche
A quieter, deeper Italy. Umbria and Le Marche offer rolling olive hills, medieval hilltop towns, and forested sanctuaries where tradition still sets the pace. This is where truffles are hunted at dawn, linens are still hand-loomed, and slow lunches stretch into sunset. Less polished than Tuscany, but just as rich—if not richer—in soul, this region is for travelers who value authenticity over flash, depth over gloss.
Where We Eat
Known for its earthy, unfussy elegance, this region is truffle-rich, pork-forward, and quietly world-class when it comes to wine. The food here doesn’t beg for attention—it’s just good.
Our Dinner Go-Tos
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One of Umbria’s most refined kitchens, Vespasia brings the flavors of the Sibillini Mountains into sharp, elegant focus. Expect truffles, local lentils, and house-cured meats presented in a way that still feels grounded. The service is warm, the wine list deep, and the candlelit setting inside Palazzo Seneca adds just the right amount of formality.
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Set beneath a vaulted ceiling with panoramic views of the Umbrian valley, Le Logge balances tradition with just enough edge. Handmade pastas are the anchor here, but seasonal specials like truffle-stuffed pigeon or chestnut soup elevate the experience. Book ahead for sunset.
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Hidden on a quiet street just beyond the historic center, Il Vecchio Mulino is the kind of no-frills trattoria locals guard jealously. Expect checkered tablecloths, daily specials scribbled on a board, and Umbrian comfort food done right—think gnocchi with wild boar ragù, grilled sausages, and seasonal vegetable sides. It’s warm, filling, and deeply unpretentious.
Street Food
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Overstuffed piadine made fresh to order in a tiny shop steps from the main piazza. Think soft flatbread folded around mortadella, gorgonzola, rocket, or whatever else is local and seasonal that week.
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Authentic crescia sfogliata, the flaky, savory flatbread of Le Marche, stuffed with pecorino, sausage, or wild greens. It’s local, comforting, and wildly satisfying after a climb through the hilltop city.
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Umbrian porchetta, where it was born. This butcher-turned-legend still roasts whole pigs stuffed with wild fennel and garlic in a centuries-old oven. Best eaten on a roll from the market stall with a splash of red wine.
Go All Out
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A longtime local favorite with vaulted stone ceilings and an understated air, Ristorante Apollinare delivers Umbrian tradition with polish. Handmade strangozzi with truffle, tender veal cheeks, and excellent local wines make it a reliable dinner destination after a day of exploring Spoleto’s historic core. The service is gracious, and the atmosphere feels timeless without trying too hard.
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An understated gem with just six tables, this intimate, design-forward restaurant rethinks tradition through a modern lens. Young Umbrian chef Luca creates a la carte and tasting menus rooted in local identity—unexpected flavor combinations, house-made fermentations, and beautiful plating without the fuss.
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A destination in itself, Il Tiglio is tucked in the Sibillini Mountains and worth the pilgrimage. Known for its modern interpretation of Marche’s pastoral heritage, the multi-course tasting menu incorporates everything from forest berries to wild herbs, all served in a stylish alpine-modern dining room.
Best Desserts
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A landmark pasticceria dating back to 1860, Sandri serves beautifully executed classics—flaky sfoglia, fruit-topped tarts, and rich Umbrian chocolate confections—beneath painted ceilings and antique glass cases. A refined stop for something sweet in the heart of Perugia.
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Elegant and old-school in all the right ways, Picchio is where locals go for pastries, semifreddo, and meticulously crafted desserts. Try the maritozzo or a seasonal fruit mousse before or after visiting the Santuario.
Where We Wake Up
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An institution on Corso Vannucci that’s been serving elegant pastries and espresso since 1860. Marble counters, frescoed ceilings, and a glass case of fruit tarts, sfogliatelle, and cornetti make this a quintessential Umbrian morning.
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A local favorite with a seasonal breakfast menu that includes house-baked cakes, poached eggs with truffle, and excellent cappuccinos in a charming alleyway courtyard.
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A beloved coffee roaster in Ancona known for its slow-drip brews and high-quality blends. A minimalist, modern café that caters to serious coffee drinkers but keeps the neighborhood warmth.
Where To Sip
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One of Umbria’s most established estates, Lungarotti helped put Sagrantino and Torgiano Rosso on the map. The guided tastings are elegant without being stiff, and the family-run wine museum next door is worth a stop.
Details to know: Located in Torgiano, 20 minutes from Perugia. Tastings start at €15 and include multiple DOCG wines. Historic, polished, and very Umbrian. Book in advance for museum + wine experiences.
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This Le Marche winery is all about minimal intervention and native varietals. La Staffa is best known for its bright, mineral-driven Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, and tastings often happen with the young winemaker himself.
Details to know: In Staffolo, 45 minutes from Ancona. Tastings from €20. Vibe is organic, pared-back, and personal. Great for natural wine lovers and design-conscious travelers.
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A must for Sagrantino lovers. Arnaldo Caprai is a powerhouse in Montefalco and one of the region’s most influential producers. The tasting room is sleek and elevated, but the real draw is the vineyard tour, which offers views over the Umbrian countryside.
Details to know: Just outside Montefalco. Tastings from €25, with guided vineyard walks available. Sophisticated but not flashy. Ask to try the 25 Anni Sagrantino.
Where We Sleep
Eremito
A spiritual, monastic escape in the Umbrian hills with no Wi-Fi and candlelit dinners.
For those truly seeking stillness, Eremito is a rare retreat. Built from the stones of a 13th-century monastery, it embraces digital detox with simple, cell-like rooms, daily yoga, and silent meals. The interiors are austere yet poetic, and the experience is intentionally introspective—part luxury, part pilgrimage.
Image courtesy of Eremito
From ~€260/night
Located in a nature reserve near Parrano
18 "Celluzze" rooms styled like monastic cells
Vegetarian meals served communally and by candlelight
No Wi-Fi, no TV, no distractions—by design
Wellness includes hammam, steam room, yoga, and nature trails
Adults-only, with a strict quiet-after-dinner ethos
Eco-conscious construction and energy use
The stone bathtub tucked beneath an arched window is a standout feature.
Details To Know
Why We Like It
Vocabolo
Moscatelli
A 12‑room, adults‑only monastery conversion just outside Umbertide, merging solemn stone with warm mid‑century design.
Why We Like It
It feels like an intimate design refuge in the heart of Umbria’s green hills. Built within a 12th‑century monastery, the restored rooms balance ancient walls with curated vintage furnishings. The restaurant and bar both earned a Michelin Key for their creative Umbrian cuisine and cocktails that echo the local terroir. It’s refined, human‑scaled, and purposefully unpolished.
Image courtesy of Fora Travel
From ~€320/night
Situated 5 km from Umbertide on a quiet country road
12 uniquely styled rooms; some have private garden terraces
Outdoor pool with forest views and Matite cocktail bar
Restaurant serves seasonal Umbrian dishes with global influences
Spa cabin offers sauna, jacuzzi, and in-room treatments on request
Adults-only (14+); dog-friendly policy
Underfloor heating, Sonos, hemp linens, rain showers in every room
On-site events include ceramics workshops and yoga in the chapel
Ask for a Spa Suite with private sauna and outdoor hot tub—rare finds in Umbria.
Details To Know
Castello
di Monterone
A serene hideaway tucked behind medieval walls, this 13th-century castle has been transformed into a stylish, boutique estate with unexpected modern touches.
Deeply personal in scale and design, Monterone blends historic charm with contemporary comfort—stone cloisters, vaulted lounges, and cozy fireplaces—yet it never feels staged. The pool overlooks parkland views, while the spa provides a quiet counterpoint. It’s one of the few places near Perugia that feels authentically romantic without being fussy.
Image courtesy of Castello di Monterone
From ~€400/night
Located 3 km south of Perugia’s city center
18 rooms and suites, each different—moody, modern, or classic
Outdoor pool and discreet spa with sauna and massage cabin
Mediterranean garden and library lounges with fireplaces
On-site fine-dining restaurant serving Umbrian specialties
Offers cooking lessons and private wine-tasting packages
Complimentary shuttle to Perugia in high season
Ask for a deluxe terrace room—they have small private patios overlooking the castle gardens.
Details To Know
Why We Like It
Borgo dei Conti
A 19th-century castle turned luxurious countryside estate.
Why We Like It
A true all-in-one retreat, Borgo dei Conti balances heritage with modern comforts. Set among rolling Umbrian hills, the estate includes an expansive spa, refined dining, and views across manicured grounds. It’s classic without being stuffy, romantic without trying too hard.
Image courtesy of Borgo dei Conti
From ~€400/night
20 minutes from Perugia by car
Relais & Châteaux affiliated, with 50+ rooms and suites
Fine-dining restaurant and terrace bar
Large outdoor pool, full spa, and tennis courts
Library, fireplaces, and elegant common rooms
Complimentary bikes for exploring the countryside
The panoramic pool is one of the best in central Italy.
Details To Know
Tenuta di Murlo
A sprawling 18,000‑acre private estate of renaissance villas and cottages, dotted among olive groves, a farm, and hidden pools—a secret kingdom north of Perugia.
This is Italy without limits—a historic family estate turned discreet luxury resort. Accommodations range from nine private villas to three deluxe rooms; each has an infinity or heated outdoor pool. Days here are unhurried—riding through olive orchards, fresh breakfasts delivered to your doorstep, family-style dinners at Il Caldaro. It’s grand in scale yet intimate by design.
Image courtesy of Murlo
From ~€350 per person per night for villas (~€700+ per couple)
Estate includes nine independent villas and three deluxe rooms
Private pools or hot tubs in most villas; spa services available
Onsite farm, apiary, vineyards, lakes and tennis courts
Il Caldaro restaurant offers farm-to-table seasonal menus and villa delivery
Equestrian paths, cooking classes, and wine tastings curated daily
Children and dogs welcome; concierge support for private events
Heating, wifi, housekeeping, and villa driver service included
Villa Molinella’s underground grotto hot tub is one of the most unique accommodations in Europe.
Details To Know
Why We Like It
What We Do
A region of slow pleasures and old soul. From frescoed cathedrals and hilltop galleries to paper-making workshops and antique fairs, Umbria and Le Marche offer a quieter kind of cultural richness—more stone and silence than spectacle. The experience here is tactile, rooted, and reverent.
Culture & Shopping
Culture & Shopping
Cashmere by Brunello Cucinelli
The hilltop village of Solomeo is the soul of Cucinelli’s quiet luxury. The flagship boutique is housed inside a former 14th-century palace and sits beside his atelier and restored Renaissance theater.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Via Giovine Italia 5, Solomeo
Price: High-end—think €1,200+ for outerwear
Vibe: Elevated, monastic, quietly luxe
Need to Know: Ask staff for a tour of the town’s Cucinelli-restored theater and library—often possible, never advertised.
Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria
A striking collection inside a former palazzo, the Galleria traces Umbria’s golden age through masterpieces by Perugino, Pinturicchio, and Gentile da Fabriano. Come for the Gothic altarpieces, stay for the frescoed ceilings and rare textiles.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Corso Pietro Vannucci 19
Price: €10 general admission
Vibe: Scholarly, peaceful, deeply Italian
Need to Know: Closed Mondays—combine with a walk along the nearby aqueduct.
Mercato delle Gaite
More medieval fair than market, this immersive event turns Bevagna’s cobbled streets into a living history exhibit. You’ll find handwoven fabrics, hand-bound books, apothecary goods, and artisanal cheese—all produced using 13th-century techniques.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Bevagna, Umbria
Price: Free to attend, food and workshops priced individually
Vibe: Festive, educational, time-travel-y
Need to Know: Held over 10 days in late June—book accommodation well in advance.
Fabriano Paper Museum
This isn’t just a museum—it’s a living craft center in the birthplace of fine European paper. Watch artisans handmake cotton-rag sheets, then pick up notebooks, calligraphy sets, or custom stationery from the shop.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Fabriano, Le Marche
Price: €7 entry
Vibe: Craft-centric, tactile, surprisingly cool
Need to Know: Call ahead if you want a private demonstration or workshop—they’re not always running daily.
Spoleto’s Festival dei Due Mondi
Held each summer since 1958, this multi-disciplinary festival spans opera, theater, music, and visual arts. Venues range from ancient Roman theaters to cloistered courtyards. It’s high culture without the crowds—book early, and make a night of it.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Spoleto, Umbria
Price: Most tickets €25–€60, some free events
Vibe: Sophisticated, international, performative
Need to Know: Held annually from late June through early July, with program announced in spring.
Casa Leopardi
A literary pilgrimage site in Recanati, this palazzo-turned-museum tells the story of poet Giacomo Leopardi through original manuscripts, paintings, and 18th-century furnishings. It feels frozen in time, beautifully so.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Via Giacomo Leopardi 14
Price: Price: €10–15 depending on tour
Vibe: Intimate, poetic, cerebral
Need to Know: For a deeper dive, book the extended “Ove Abitai Fanciullo” guided tour.
Adventure & Nature
Adventure & Nature
Monti Sibillini National Park
Straddling the border of Umbria and Le Marche, this rugged national park is home to dramatic peaks, alpine meadows, and remote hilltop villages. Hike to wildflower-covered Piano Grande in spring, or take on more challenging climbs near Monte Vettore.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Between Norcia (Umbria) and Visso (Le Marche)
Price: Free entry, guided hikes vary
Vibe: Majestic, remote, cinematic
Need to Know: Wildflower season is late May to early July—time it right.
Monte Cucco Caves & Hang Gliding
The trails around Monte Cucco are ideal for hikers and hang-gliders alike, but the caves beneath are just as exciting. Book a tour to descend into narrow rock passages and see underground streams.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Sigillo, Umbria
Price: Cave tours from €20, tandem flights from €120.
Vibe: Underground and airborne adventure
Need to Know: Closed November through March—book in advance during peak season.
Cascata delle Marmore
This ancient manmade waterfall—originally built by the Romans—is one of the tallest in Europe. There are six walking paths around the falls, plus lookout terraces for misty close-ups. Arrive when the dam opens to see it at full power.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Just outside Terni, Umbria
Price: ~€12 entry
Vibe: Thunderous, lush, touristy but worth it
Need to Know: Water is released at set times—check the official schedule before you go.
Classes & Workshops
Classes & Workshops
Umbrian Olive Oil Experience
Set among terraced groves in Spoleto, this guided olive oil tasting introduces you to local monocultivars, cold-pressed methods, and the subtle nuances of Umbrian EVOO. You’ll walk through the grove, see the production process, and sample seasonal oils with bruschetta, cheeses, and wine.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Spoleto, Umbria
Price: From €35/person
Vibe: Warm, rustic, quietly educational
Need to Know: Must be booked in advance—private tastings available.
Umbrian Cooking Class
Run by a mother-daughter duo in the rolling hills of Paciano, this is a full-sensory deep dive into Umbrian foodways. You’ll pick herbs from the garden, learn to make handmade pasta, and cook a full farm-to-table lunch paired with organic wines from the estate.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Paciano, Umbria
Price: From €140/person
Vibe: Intimate, genuine, delicious
Need to Know: Available year-round, weather permitting—sells out quickly in peak season.
Paper-Making Workshop
Fabriano has been making handmade paper since the 13th century, and this immersive museum-atelier lets you try your hand at traditional techniques. After exploring centuries-old presses and tools, you’ll join a hands-on lab using real cotton pulp and wooden molds.
DETAILS TO KNOW
Location: Fabriano, Le Marche
Price: Entry €10, workshop €15–25 depending on group size
Vibe: Tactile, creative, and hyper-local.
Need to Know: Best to email in advance to reserve a spot in the workshop.
If You Have 48 Hours
PART ONE: Start In Spoleto
Base yourself at either the soulful Eremito (for silent retreat vibes) or the refined Vocabolo Moscatelli (for a boutique-luxe stay near the Umbrian countryside). Begin with a slow morning wandering Spoleto’s cobbled streets, ducking into Roman amphitheaters and churches carved into the hillside.
Don’t miss the walk across Ponte delle Torri, the dramatic aqueduct bridge that frames the whole valley. Settle in for lunch at Apollinare, a quiet favorite known for Umbrian classics done right—think housemade strangozzi, truffle oil, and warm lentils. In the afternoon, head out for a guided tasting at Eremo delle Fate, where you’ll learn about Umbrian olive oils among silver-green trees. Come sunset, return to your hotel for a glass of Sagrantino on the terrace before dinner.
PART TWO: Dine And Detour In Bevagna
Morning calls for a countryside detour—drive through the olive-slick hills to Bevagna, a medieval town known for its perfectly preserved piazza. In June, the village transforms for the Mercato delle Gaite, a historical reenactment of artisan guilds. If you’re here in time, it’s unmissable.
Otherwise, browse local shops and stop at Redibis for a dramatic lunch inside a Roman theatre. Afterward, wind toward Montefalco for a vineyard tour and tasting at Antonelli San Marco. You’ll sip bold Sagrantinos with views over the Valnerina. Circle back to Spello for golden hour—this village glows at sunset, with vines crawling up pink-stone walls. Book dinner at La Cantina, a local institution for earthy fare and serious Umbrian wine.
PART THREE: Explore The East
Wake up early and head east—cut across the Apennines into Le Marche. Your destination: Fabriano, famed for its paper mills. At the Museo della Carta e della Filigrana, you’ll try your hand at traditional paper-making using centuries-old techniques. Next, drive to Gubbio, a striking hill town that feels untouched by time.
Take the cable car up to Basilica di Sant’Ubaldo for panoramic views, then descend for a long lunch at Taverna del Lupo. Think wild boar ragù, black truffle, and rustic elegance. In the afternoon, browse ceramics in Deruta or head back toward Paciano for a wine tasting or cooking class at Il Fontanaro.
PART FOUR: Finish In Spoleto Or Perugia
Your final day is flexible, depending on your energy. For quiet reflection, revisit Spoleto and walk the forest trails around Monteluco. Alternatively, head to Perugia for a bit more buzz—visit the National Gallery of Umbria, stop at Pasticceria Sandri for sweets, and grab lunch at L’Officina before heading out.
If you’re here in late June or July, consider timing your trip to the Festival dei Due Mondi, Spoleto’s iconic performing arts festival that draws world-class talent to cloisters, theatres, and moonlit piazzas. Then head home, slow and full.
