thailand
Thailand, uncovered.
Golden temples at sunrise, jungle-backed islands, electric night markets, and longtail boats drifting through limestone karsts—Thailand is often photographed but rarely truly known. We went deeper, sifting through the chaos and clichés to find the places that feel like something. The spots with edge, the hideaways with elegance, the markets that still hold magic.
Whether you’re navigating Bangkok’s thrum, island-hopping down south, or heading north toward misty mountain retreats, this guide is your filter.
Where to go. Where to stay. What to skip. What to savor.
Every moment, considered.
Looking for a region?
Need to know
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Thailand’s dry season (November to March) is peak for travel, with blue skies and cooler heat. April and May bring intense humidity and local festivals like Songkran, while June through October is monsoon season—lush and green, but unpredictable. Island weather varies: the Andaman Coast (Phuket, Krabi) is driest in winter, while the Gulf Islands (Koh Samui, Koh Pha Ngan) shine in summer.
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Bangkok is your entry point—and worth more than a stopover. From there, choose your angle: north for temples, nature, and a slower pace (Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai); south for beach time, whether party-heavy (Phuket) or low-key luxe (Koh Yao, Samui). If you’re short on time, pair Bangkok with one coast. If you’ve got longer, hop between both.
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Thailand is welcoming, but it runs on its own rhythm. Dress modestly at temples, expect delays, and know that smiling politely goes further than raising your voice. There’s a tension between the hyper-touristed and the deeply local—our picks aim for the in-between: places with character, authenticity, and room to breathe.
Markets Worth the Madness
Or Tor Kor Market, Bangkok
One of the cleanest, most curated food markets in the country. Think perfect mangoes, jars of chili paste, handwoven baskets, and spice blends packaged like perfume.
Chatuchak Weekend Market, Bangkok
Yes, it’s massive and chaotic—but if you go early and stick to the right sections, you’ll find linen jumpsuits, celadon ceramics, and hand-carved kitchenware worth packing.
Talad Noi, Bangkok
Not a traditional market—more of a living collage. Vintage stores in back alleys, shrines wrapped in marigolds, open-air coffee bars, and secondhand everything.
Warorot Market, Chiang Mai
No-frills, local, and still completely alive. Come for the dried fruits, tribal textiles, and old-school spice stalls. Less curated, more authentic.
Amphawa Floating Market, Samut Songkhram
Skip the tourist-trap vibe of Damnoen Saduak—this one actually feels lived in. Best in the late afternoon with grilled river prawns and cold beer by the canal.
Hala hit list
A few of our forever favorites.
A night of street food in Chinatown, Bangkok
Start with dim sum, end with charcoal-grilled satay and a mango sticky rice that’ll ruin all others. Go with a guide—or someone who speaks Thai.
Private longtail through Phang Nga Bay
Skip the packed James Bond boat tours and charter a longtail at sunrise. Towering limestone karsts, hidden lagoons, no one else in sight.
Cooking class with a local chef in Chiang Mai
Sunset drinks at Baba Nest, Phuket
Shop the morning market, cook over an open flame, and learn the difference between northern and central Thai spice. No, it won’t taste the same at home.
A sleek floating deck with panoramic sea views and serious cocktails. Come just before dusk—reservations essential, and it’s worth the hype.
Muay Thai at Rajadamnern Stadium
Raw, loud, and wildly local. Not touristy in the way you think. Go VIP for a view, or stand ringside if you’re brave.
Massage in a temple courtyard
In Bangkok or Chiang Mai, skip the hotel spa. Seek out a traditional Thai massage in an open-air sala where monks walk past. Painful, then euphoric.
if you have 48 hours
LAND IN BANGKOK
Touch down early and dive in. Grab an espresso at Sarnies or Brave Roasters, wander the Grand Palace grounds before it gets crowded, and hop a longtail boat through the canals. Lunch at Err, golden hour at Wat Arun, dinner at 100 Mahaseth, and a nightcap at Teens of Thailand.
HEAD NORTH OR SOUTH
Fly to Chiang Mai for temple calm and jungle air—or south to Koh Samui for a beachfront reset. In Chiang Mai: visit Wat Phra Singh, shop Warorot Market, and dine at Ginger Farm Kitchen. On Samui: beach club at SEEN, massage in a sala, and grilled seafood by the sand.
SLOW IT DOWN
Wake up with sticky rice and mango. Bike through Bang Krachao in Bangkok, wander Chiang Mai’s old city, or take a morning dip off a quiet cove in Samui. Skip the rush. Let Thailand breathe for you.
END WITH A VIEW
Rooftop drink at The Standard’s Sky Beach, or a sunset ferry in the south. Pick up handwoven cotton, a jar of chili jam, or handmade ceramics. One last papaya salad. One last breath. Thailand says nothing—but you’ll feel it.
what to bring home:
Ceramic bowls and tableware from Prempracha in Chiang Mai
Natural indigo-dyed scarves from Studio Naenna
Coconut wood utensils and hand-carved trays from the weekend market at Chatuchak
Dried Thai herbs and lemongrass tea from Doi Mae Salong
A tin of curry paste or tamarind candy from Boonsap Market in Bangkok
Celadon ceramics from Chiang Mai’s Baan Celadon or Sop Moei Arts
A jar of Ya Dom (Thai herbal inhaler) from any 7-Eleven—but go for the handmade version at a local pharmacy if you find one
Silk robes or pillow covers from Jim Thompson House (yes, the gift shop is actually chic).
Artisanal chili oils from Pikun and palm sugar from Or Tor Kor Market
Let’s Plan Something Unforgettable
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